It's time I learned what all the fuss about Lush is.

A common thing to do on social media, if you’re a craft beer nerd, is to post a photo of the inside of your fridge stocked full of trophy beers you acquired from all the most sought-after breweries within reasonable driving distance. (And by “reasonable” we usually mean a 3,000-mile radius.)

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I don’t care much for that kind of showmanship. I would rather keep treating great beers like the rare and elusive specimens they are, especially here in Vermont, where challenges of beer distribution include unpaved roads far outnumbering paved, passable probably four months out of the year.

So if I head into a walk-in cooler and come out with a 4-pack of something quite buzzed about, the thing I forgot I was looking for but found after all, on this very day—I let that 4-pack ride shotgun with me all the way home, and we crank up the tunes. Because destiny, or whatever.

Thus it was, on my last trip to the Co-op Food Store in White River Junction, when one of the IPA darlings of the day and I finally met eyes and made off together.

THE BREW: Frost Beer Works Lush Double IPA

MY TAKE:

I’ve liked what the guys in Hinesburg are doing. Liked it a lot. They stand shoulder-to-shoulder with any of their Vermont beer peers.

Naturally I was excited for my first crack into a can of Lush. As it wafted out a clean cannabinoid breeze, I said, “So that’s how you party.” It pours the hazy, creek-water bisque that everybody seems to be into these days, and I have no problem with that. First mouthful certainly has mouthfeel, fronted by a generous hop blast radius. And it has a fighting chance for a minute there, opening up onto grapefruit groves—but briefly. Next thing you know, the sun’s sunk down below the horizon. The grove given way to charred earth. Like a diving board that snaps on the second bounce, and sends you plunging into watery conclusion. Like, that’s all you got?

I don’t not like Lush. It’s good. I drank the hell out of it anyhow. But it hardly transcends.

The takeaway: Pick up a four of Frost’s Plush instead. Not as hazy, granted, but way weirder and more complex.

WHERE TO FIND: I don’t know. The Co-op Food Stores carry it, but ask around. Or: day trip to Hinesburg!

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